Game for anything
Autumn is a fantastically exciting time for cooks, marking the beginning of a whole new larder of game. 
All game is very healthy to eat, and can be cheap. I’d recommend anyone to make the most of the game larder, as it can be used in a huge variety of ways, from the creative and unusual, such as curried snipe, through simple roast game birds in more traditional dishes such as coq au vin but using pheasant or guinea fowl.

First on the menu is the young grouse, which we normally get on The Pipe and Glass menu on the 13th August. They come at a price, though! In the first couple of weeks, we simply roast the bird and serve it traditionally garnished with bread sauce, game chips, redcurrant, watercress, fried breadcrumbs and a croûte of the livers. Grouse is not to everyone’s taste – it’s a stronger-tasting game bird – but I encourage people to try it. As the season moves on and the birds get a little older we use it for potting and serve it on a plate of game.



At the start of September the very popular red-legged partridge start to appear on the menu. This is by far the most popular game bird we sell. We serve it roasted with parsnip dauphinoise, smoky bacon fritters and a sauce of mulled elderberries foraged from nearby trees.

As we head into November, pheasant are abundant. Pheasant can be dry: the secret is to keep it moist. I braise it in local cider, or make a chestnut and sage forcemeat form the leg meat, stuff it under the skin, wrap it in caul fat, then cook it sous vide. Finish by pan roasting it and serve it with crispy black pudding and baked apple.

Throughout the rest of the season the occasional woodcock, snipe, teal and wigeon all make an appearance on the specials board.

Rabbits and hares are sometimes brought to the kitchen door by a few local lads and a bit of bartering taking place.

Deer features on a menu regularly. We use the whole animal: the haunch cut for braises and stews, whereas the loin I remove from the saddle and simply pan fry in butter for a few minutes and rest before serving.

I would highly recommend you try some game this winter – we love it and hope you do too.

James Mackenzie


PUBLISHED :November 2012
TAGS : AUTUMNFOOD
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