So it has been with the last ten years of the Pipe and Glass. It seems like only days have passed since Kate, James and I sat excitedly talking about the plans for their new venture. They were very clear about the style of food, service and ethos that they intended sharing with new friends visiting this wonderful old pub. And ‘pub’ was the key word that emerged time and again. It was clear from the off that this was not to be one of those restaurants where only diners were welcome.
The food was to reflect the passion James had for ingredients, their provenance and presentation, and so it had be with the wine list: no tome that took eons to wade through, but a list that was clear, easy to understand and with a selection of wines that would complement the food, adding to a relaxed, fun and enjoyable experience.
The staff were key, of course – their knowledge of wines and food groupings has resulted in the continuing development of the wine list. Kate soon noticed that guests were becoming more confident in exploring new exciting grape varieties, chatting with the team, sharing their opinions and challenging preconceptions about sticking to the same old wines.
She set me the challenge of developing the list in a new direction, reflecting the style that was evolving at the Pipe and Glass – a style that had by then been recognised by no less than the Michelin ‘Red’ Guide with a star.
A list was needed that challenged all traditions, but more importantly truly reflected all that Kate and James had achieved and was important to them both. The inspiration came from James’ first book, On the Menu, a straightforward approach to stunning food with great recipes.
When the time came to present the list to Kate (very scary indeed, I can tell you!) every rule in the book was thrown out of the window: red wines with fish, white wines with game…
The response was immediate. Kate smiled, and James immediately started exploring the food matches and the endless possibilities. I breathed a huge sigh of relief. We could now develop the list along unrestricted lines, introducing wines that one would normally not try for fear that this would not work with that. The set rule of ‘red wine with meat, white wine with fish’ was thrown out. Personal preference was now okay.
This innovation was recognised last year when the pub won the new Wine List of the Year category in the 2015 Morning Advertiser Top 50 Gastropub Awards. The judges loved the informality and easy style of the great wines. They could well have been describing the Pipe and Glass itself.