Season of mists
Ah, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness is upon us again, and Christmas hot on its heels – which means it’s a whole year since we launched The Pantry! Where does time go?



Autumn, of course, is always a very special time in the culinary calendar, for the professional chef and keen home cook alike. It’s when we reap the benefits of all that summer sun and rain, and start to think ahead to the chilly winter days – it’s nice to have a few little treats tucked away in the kitchen cupboard to remind you of the glories of summer, and keep you warm until spring.



That’s when jams and jellies, chutneys and pickles, and preserves of all kinds, come into their own.

What could be nicer after a bracing walk on a freezing winter’s afternoon than sitting by the fire with a pot of tea and English muffins, toasted and slathered in good butter, then topped with raspberry (or strawberry, or blackberry, or plum, or whatever your own particular favourite happens to be) jam, made with fruit from your own garden?



Or, if you prefer the savoury, how about luscious, melting cheese on toast with your own chutney? Chutneys are remarkably easy to make, and you don’t have to stick to the usual suspects such as apple, and beetroot – why not branch out into more exotic ingredients?

There’s a lovely recipe in my book On the Menu for mulled quince chutney. It involves mulling the fruit in red wine and port, so is pretty luxurious, but is easy to make and tastes gorgeous with game terrine, cheese, or one of my signature dishes, hare and juniper pasties. Perfumed and velvety, quinces were difficult to come by until recently (unless you knew someone who had a bush or tree in their garden), but now they turn up fairly regularly in greengrocers.

You will, of course, need something to eat all these wonderful preserves with, and for my money at this time of year there’s nothing better than game. Hare, rabbit, pheasant, partridge, grouse, woodcock, snipe, wild duck, venison – even the words make my mouth water.



This is the time of year for some ribsticking puddings, too – none of those frothy, light confections that are so tempting in the hot weather: you need something to keep you warm at this time of year!

We Brits are masters of the pudding – treacle tarts, suet puddings, sponge puddings, fruit pies and, perhaps the queen of them all, the not-so-humble crumble. Fill a deep dish with seasonal fruits – apples, rhubarb, foraged blackberries – perhaps spiced up a little with some cinnamon or ginger, or whatever else takes your fancy. Top it with a crisp blanket of crumble – you can add oats, ground or flaked almonds, or even a little chocolate if you want to be seriously indulgent.


PUBLISHED :October 2013
TAGS : AUTUMNFOOD
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